A few days ago Tule and I drove back to Carson City for the surgery so nice I had it twice – the gum thing that didn’t work the first time. We had a beautiful drive up Highway 395 through the eastern Sierra. Since I have waxed poetic here about Nevada, it’s only fair to share the joys of this scenic drive. So here are, in south to north order, my top ten things to do on 395. OK, it actually goes to 11.
1. Have lunch at the Ranch House Café in Olancha. I used to mock the espresso sign on this old roadhouse restaurant in the not-quite village of Olancha. That was before I stopped in there a couple of years ago after playing with the dogs somewhere. I ordered a grilled cheese with tomato. They grill their tomato before putting it in the sandwich. The result is a surprising improvement over the standard. Still a pretty standard place, but nice people and a good sammie.
2. Visit
Manzanar, naturally.
3. Grab a bagel at the Great Basin Bakery in Bishop. I’m trying not to eat refined flour and sugar these days, but the Great Basin makes the only bagel in town that I want to eat. Get it toasted with the pesto cream cheese. Also an array of delicious, fresh, mostly organic breads. A vegan chocolate chip oat cookie with walnuts and maple syrup, pecan cinnamon rolls worth going off the wagon for, and really good coffee.
4. If you’re out for a hike, pull off at the Toms Place exit and drive up Rock Creek. Not only do you have the option of hiking to many scenic lakes, the store serves a mean cream pie.
5. Drive right by the exit for Mammoth Lakes.
6. Swing into the June Lake loop and enjoy the scenic drive through June Lake. Get a boat at Silver Lake and enjoy the aspens, the beautiful lake, and the surrounding mountain scenery. Evidently fish too, but that’s wasted on me.
7. Refill that coffee at the Latte Da Coffee Shop in Lee Vining. Not much for food and no bathrooms, but very nice people, views of Mono Lake, good vibe, and tasty coffee. And a nice spot to renew that fantasy of how great it would be to live in Lee Vining.
8. Go visit Bodie, the remarkably preserved old mining town out in the hills. The first time I went to Bodie, we made a long rambling adventure of it, coming in on a little used dirt road offering us some other mine remnants and opportunities for walks among aspen.
9. Take a break at the day use rest areas along the Walker River between Bridgeport and Walker. Good place to use the potty, walk the dog, stretch our legs, and enjoy the incredible Walker River Canyon. This is the prettiest part of the drive and the most treacherous in the winter. But now that it’s June, breathe deeply of the trees and the sun and enjoy a break.
10. Enjoy a bite to eat at Walker Burger in Walker. They serve out of a window but have lots of options including a veggie burger, and delicious fries. Eat your lunch in their shady patio with plenty of character. And use their clean bathrooms.
11. As you can tell, a good bathroom means a lot because traffic on 395 is usually too busy to pull off and pee alongside the road. Walker has a public bathroom behind its town park. Signs lead the way and offer travelers an opportunity to relieve themselves without having to buy anything. I applaud Walker for their thoughtfulness.
I know people swear by the Whoa Nellie! Deli at the Lee Vining Mobil station, but the one time I ate there and tried a vegetarian option, it was pretty gross. The word on the street is stick with the fish tacos. But Whoa Nellie! didn’t make my top ten.