Overheard on Facebook

Larry (soon to be retiring brother-in-law): 12 weeks left!
Adam: You comin straight back to san antonio?
Larry: Not direct momma has me globetrotting as part of my Air Force 12 Step detox program...
Melody (sister, "momma"): Laughing at the 12 step detox program!! LOL!
Nicole: Yikes...Im about there too :D
Gretel: Is momma gonna take me on a Peace Corps 12 step detox program? Or after 2 years I only get 3 steps?
Larry: You'll need all 12 steps when you get back. We'll reintroduce you to Trader Joes very slowly....

Pioneer Woman Pizza and Romanian Scrabble

Topped off a pretty darn good week with an excellent social evening friday night with Aurelia and her husband Gabi. Friday night tutoring turned into pizza and Scrabble night at their house. I arrived at five and Aurelia commenced to assemble our pizza, the recipe from The Pioneer Woman, whom Aurelia loves nearly as much as my sister does. (My sister refers to TPW as her second favorite blog, bless her heart). We loaded tomato paste, chopped olives, roasted red pepper, raw green pepper, sautéed mushrooms, ham, and cheese onto our pizza and put in the oven. All the while I was ogling a cookbook of Aurelia’s –1000 Recipes—something French translated into Romanian. I think Aurelia has a rather Julie & Julia relationship with it. I got stuck on all the recipes for rabbit. Meanwhile we just prattled on and on in Romanian. Gabi got home just about the time the pizza was done and we had a feast. After we ate, we put away our cookbooks and turned our attention to a Romanian version of Scrabble—the pieces are conveniently magnetic, there is no Q, but the H is worth 10 and it earned its score; I couldn’t use my H. My long-suffering mother will perhaps be mollified to know that I won the first round. Then the second game, Gabi got his act together and cleaned our clocks. Aurelia’s and my scores didn’t add up to his. I consoled Aurelia, the brilliant linguist among us, that she isn’t accustomed to using small words. Next week we’ll try playing in English. Then we ate some cake and talked politics and I came home. Grand evening. More to come.

My good mood is greatly enhanced by the weather. Tulcea has been Tulcea all week with unending sunny skies and temperatures in the 50s and even 60s. I sit at my desk watching the kids on the playground and in the afternoons go for a walk around the lake-to-be. I was hoping to go out to the park Saturday for a real hike, but I haven’t gotten far enough on grassland management to take the time. I’ve made great progress on my Jr. Ranger book this week, the first lesson I’m working on for my teacher box. I hope to create a pre-field-trip lesson about Leave No Trace, and then the booklet has activities associated with LNT. I hope this next week to show it to Adela, get some feedback, and see about getting it translated. I am good at translating English-Romanian but not the other way round. Written Romanian is so formal that I cannot do the translation justice.

Alas, my internet has been working poorly this week. I think it’s time I actually go out and buy my own. Not really a hardship to do that, and I need reliable internet. If only so that I can share my pizza stories.

Oh, and one more pizza story. I was telling Aurelia about my friend Tom, the gourmet chef, who once had a pizza party and served, among other choices, a pizza with butternut squash, hazelnuts, and onions…and I paused to think how to say carmelized…carmeleazata? Yes, in fact, ceapa carmeleazata. A victory for pizza and my Romanian language skills.

A Movement is Afoot

I've been watching city workers out ripping out turf and cleaning up all week. Today when I took my camera, they were nowhere to be found. But the work is shaping up and I think at the end of it, Tulcea will have a beautiful city park right down at the end of my street. You see, on my map there is a big lake between me and the river. But it hasn't been a lake since I've arrived--just a big brambly field. And I couldn't quite understand the story of where the lake went, so I forgot about it. But evidently we are now bringing back the lake complete with pedestrian paths, a beach, light poles, and perhaps some benches. While I've been a bit surprised at the removal of all organic material on the ground, I suspect we will have new grass and flowers soon and, I'm guessing, the showpiece of Tulcea. I hope so. We have some parks and certainly some nice playgrounds. But nothing like a defining city park. This is how it looks today; I'll keep you posted on the progress.

Long Week, Good Week

Plunged deep into the new work arrangement this week of more field time and working at home instead of in my Tulcea office. Had two good days of grassland management in America investigation and organizing ideas for our Teacher Box. Went out to the field office on Wednesday and got some great feedback and ideas for lessons. Thursday went to a class in Tulcea with Adela for forest month. We had middle school kids put together jigsaw puzzles of park plants and animals. They loved the activity, although they weren't very good at doing the puzzles. Not sure if they are a popular activity here. Then on Friday went out to another community for a big community meeting. We were late so I missed some of it, but they fed us well. And I talked to the school director who is very excited to collaborate on some field trip experimenting. And I had a fellow PCV come for a couple nights visit. Now I've spent my weekend catching up on the aforementioned grassland project and getting even more organized on Teacher Box with my new feedback. Starting the Jr. Ranger booklet for middle school kids all about Leave No Trace.

Which leads me to praise a video I saw recently on TED (boy, am I hooked) about open-source architecture--the idea that if we share ideas freely everybody wins. I'm disappointed in Leave No Trace that their teaching materials are not available online for free, but I need to purchase books. Very proud to be associated with the NPS who has oodles of lessons and activities free on their websites. Open source. When we share ideas, we all win.

Other notes on a sunny, spring-like week:
• Ha! Just signed up for the Athens Marathon in October with a bunch of PC mates from Romania. No, don't worry, I haven't lost my mind. There's a powerwalk option for us inherently non-athletic types. Athens, baby. Chew on that!
• I googled "Never Cry Wolf in Romanian" to find out if one of my favorite movies is available subtitled here. And the first listing was my own blog. Is that good, weird, or just a flashing neon sign of our times?
• Stewart Udall died, monumental figure in western conservation, with a sense of humor and Mormon roots.
• Bought lettuce at the piata yesterday. Yay! Must be spring. Dying to get some spinach but so far it looks not-so-edible.
• Got my first batch of origami paper in the mail from Mom. The folding begins. I've made about 60 so far. Forgive me if you skype me and I spend the time folding. Two great activities that go great together. If you are participating in the 1000 Cranes for Dachau project, you've still got plenty of time. Plan on having things in the mail to me by May 1.
• Moved my home work space to my enclosed balcony where the poached internet reception is better. I can look out at the kids playing soccer while I lasso all of the Teacher Box ideas. Have my primroses on my desk.
• Finally envisioning an enjoyable remaining 17 months in Romania.
• While at the same time, looking forward to sticking to Plan A and returning to my nice little life in the states with the NPS. You can't believe how relieved I am that unlike practically everyone else in the Peace Corps I will not be faced with the What Now? question. Grad school? Foreign service? New career? Nope. Old career but with a promotion, let's hope. Finish thesis, which I'm hoping to do with my curriculum project here. I don't envy my friends here those stresses.

So I guess business (busy-ness) becomes me, and off I go for a Sunday of grassland management.

No Cynicism Allowed

Many of you have probably seen this video; it's made the rounds on facebook and youtube. But I can't help be moved by this crazy/brilliant/beautiful young man on his journey of joy. This just might answer the question of why we are here. Anyway, it merits a repeat view.
Where the Hell is Matt

Remarkable Friends

I am blessed to be surrounded and nurtured by a remarkable group of people and I just have to share a little bit about some of their accomplishments. This is inspired by the occasion of Lukas’ fifth birthday, but I’ll save that for last. Instead I’ll lead with the news that my sister will defend her dissertation any day now and will become Dr. Crenshaw. Really. I’m so proud of her. And I’m always motivated by my creative friends—with your music, films, paintings, and crafty projects. And my parents, who in retirement are busier than ever—Mom with her museum work and weekly soup kitchen, Dad with his train club and volunteering with Habitat for Humanity—and so much more. And all those babies (getting not-so-babyish every day), and their delightful parents raising curious and compassionate souls. And of course everyone who has nourished me with gifts and kind messages while I’m here in Romania, my gratitude is endless.

Now let’s come back to my friend Lukas, who reached the milestone of 5 this past week. As some of you know, Lukas had a stroke when he was born. This sounds bad until you realize just what kind of parents he has. Jenn and Mike have been in my life since my Louisiana job in 1996. Oh, the fun times we had in our little Brooklyn apartments, before I moved on to the NPS and they moved to Nashville. I can’t imagine two people better suited to take on the challenges of Lukas’ health. At the time, many people I know offered to pray for Lukas (thanks particularly to Misty and Shar). His road has been filled with many potholes, including dramatic and risky brain surgery a couple of years ago. But through the work of many therapists, a special university speech program, many fights with insurance companies, and the staggering dedication of his loving family, Lukas now not only walks, he runs around. He not only can say words, he can sing Happy Birthday. Jenn reports that nowadays Lukas scores only about a year to a year and a half behind his peers. That may sound like a lot for a five year old, but he’s had quite a journey. And he’s caught up a lot in the past year. And best of all, Lukas is a delightful and happy child. That smile is the norm. And come the fall, he will start a special transitional kindergarten. So this is an update for those of you who remember when, and an acknowledgement that my life is blessed with really great people.
Oh, and by the way, Jenn and Mike give all the credit to God. And who am I to say different?

Six Days on the Road and I’m Gonna Make it Home Tonight

Recovering today from a long and exhausting but thoroughly successful week. Here’s how it all went down:

Monday: Bused into Bucuresti in advance of a week’s tour of the country for some environmental conferences. Months ago, we env. Volunteers were asked if we were interested in presenting anything to the Romanian Environmental Association. I suggested a presentation on the National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA) and particularly the element of public involvement. We never heard much more about it, except that soon there would be a conference. Finally last week the three of us who came up with something to present learned that we had six days notice to prepare. And it won’t just be in Buc, but also Cluj and Timisoara. No more about topic interest or how long our presentations should be. OK. Monday afternoon, I went into the PC office to print some things and other housekeeping duties. Then another volunteer and I went out to dinner. I’d hoped to revisit the great Mexican restaurant, but they were full up on reservations due to it being International Women’s Day. Next we went down the street to an Indian restaurant who begrudgingly found us a table. The meal was extremely expensive but delicious: ginger lemonade, aloo gobi (the great cauliflower dish), garlic naan, and some weird Indian ice cream that was more like pudding and was out of this world tasty.

Tuesday: Our first presentation to the Bucuresti group. Turns out that in addition to the three of us presenting in three hours, there are also five or six Romanian presenters. OK, too long already. Then turns out that our audience that was supposed to understand English did not. One of the cranky oldsters said he needed it all translated. OK, double the time. I went second, really first after our brief Peace Corps intro. I didn’t get very far into NEPA , giving my overview of the process, when people started asking questions about how it’s possible that the approving authority of an EIS can be the agency itself. I discussed some of the methods of oversight, but stressed the importance and power of the people themselves, often acting through NGOs and citizen action groups. One of my cranky oldsters would not believe this and a few of them became a bit rude in their line of questioning. I felt like I was back at Bishop lunchtime Rotary talking about Manzanar. Alas, no Ted Shayde to come to my rescue. Fortunately, another person (a younger woman, which should surprise no one) stood up and said that the point of their organization was to be open to new ideas and new ways of doing things. Anyway, as Daniela was translating something I said to the crowd, I popped into my powerpoint and cut to the wrap-up slides. It was obvious that they didn’t care too much about the details of public involvement. End of the program, lucky to escape with my hide. An unsuccessful presentation. We sat and listened for three more hours to presentations. (Found out later the Buc crowd was mostly retired government workers, which may explain something.) Then we Americans were shuffled into another room while they had their business meeting. Finally we three stuffed into the back of an Audi sedan and headed to Sibiu, a four to five hour drive north. Along the way, as our hosts stopped for gas and a smoke, I pulled out my secret weapon—peanut butter, jelly, and bread—anticipating correctly that even though our hosts were taking care of our meals, they may be few and far between. Every day, I made us our little sandwiches, courtesy of Trader Joe’s and my family, that kept us going. Finally we arrived at a pensiune outside Sibiu that was either free or low cost to our hosts because somebody has an agreement. I had joked that somebody must have a grandmother in Sibiu since we weren’t presenting there, just staying there. Anyway, at 9 o’clock we sat down to our dinner of pork jello. Really. A bowl of rendered pork goodness. No, I don’t recommend it. But I ate some. We also had some fatty pork snitzel. The meals got better after this. The highlight of the pensiune were the nice people who ran it and their very friendly huge white dogs.

Wednesday: Breakfast at 7 of eggs, cheese, mamaliga, meat, and preserved cherries. Out the door at 7:30 for our three and a half hour drive to Cluj. Meantime, I’d cut my presentation to less than half. Had a cold but nice sunny day. Stopped at a pullout up the mountain from Cluj, looking down at the city. When we got to the university where our conference was being held (the Cluj arm of the Romanian Environmental Association) we Americans were abandoned in a small conference room while they had their business meeting. We had some coffee and eventually broke out the PB&J. Funny, then, after the business meeting when we were TAKEN OUT TO LUNCH by our Cluj hosts before our presentations. Ate a good salad, my only vegetable of the week. Then we walked into our presentation room to find over a hundred students in addition to our environmental professionals—a mix of university people, government employees, and consultants with private firms or NGOs. My presentation went much better and no one requested translation. At the end, another presenter even referred to something I’d said about the value of public involvement. We were thrilled with all the students. Also the Romanian presentations seemed more interesting today, although it could be just that I was in a much better mood. After a full day, we had the long drive back to Sibiu and more pork for dinner. Sarmale. It was actually good if greasy. They’d also made some vegetarian ones with mushrooms which were good too. Then chicken legs on the side. Meat with a side of meat. Wait, tomorrow’s dinner is really good.

Thursday: Breakfast was better with scrambled eggs. They like their fried eggs here very runny. I don’t. Also some good homemade cheese. Then off for our nearly five hour drive to Timisoara. Oh, the history that we are not getting to experience because of our schedule. But we are keeping to our schedule. No lunch in Timisoara. But some snacks. Presented to a small group of our environmental professionals in a classroom which displayed many kinds of native grasses. Afterwards, a woman who is a professor there asked me to come back in May and present American methods of grassland management at another conference. I said yes after having a small panic attack at the additional request to submit a paper in two weeks on the subject. A short paper—only 4 pages. Yes, that’s quite short but still four pages more than I know right now about grassland management in America. Eh, I know people. Long drive home to Sibiu. But the best dinner. Really good soup. Grilled trout, I ate the whole thing and even picked at the head, digging out the fish cheeks—it was that delicious. Then for the entrée, mashed potatoes with what I think was pork loin somehow pot roasted, it was all juicy and soft. Completely yummy and lean. Well there was big fat sausage too, but I abstained. It was 10 p.m., past my sausage hour. Oh and yeah, I’d already eaten a whole trout.

Friday: Said goodbye to those adorable (if filthy and unbrushed) dogs. Since we were told we were responsible (with reimbursement) for finding our ways home from Sibiu, I had made plans and so did not take the now proffered ride home to Buc. Just as well, I was exhausted by the visions of what life would be like without legs after somehow surviving the impending crash in our host’s car. At one point earlier in the week, he said, “Break in ten minutes,” and I thought, “Will that be before or after the fiery crash?” Then considering the impossibility of the “after” option, I amended it to be, “Will that be before or concurrent with the fiery crash?” Then I amused myself by that. Anyway, I stuck to the original plan and simply got a ride into Sibiu to the train station. After a nice cup of tea, I met up with a volunteer, Zach, who lives in Sibiu. I had contacted him to help me with a task. In the meantime I got a short tour of the historic section of this old German city, steeped in history and beautiful architecture. But to the task: Matei’s mother had mentioned that there exists in Sibiu a hospital with a pediatric neurological department and they have two-week treatment programs. Since I don’t really understand half of what this dear woman says to me, I didn’t know much more than that. Anyway, I told her that I would have a little free time in Sibiu and would get more information about the hospital. With Zach’s help, we went from hospital to hospital trying to find the right one. No, this is the neurological hospital, you want the pediatric hospital. No, this is the pediatric hospital, you want… until I found the right place and the right doctor. I did succeed in getting Matei an appointment for his two-week visit in September. We’ll see if that is in fact helpful. Then on the train for the eight hour trip down to Susie’s in Ploiesti for a free night on the sofa. And some good debriefing.

Saturday: Uneventful day of travel—train to Buc in the morning from Ploiesti, short walk to bus station, bus home to Tulcea. I have been able to start reading again on buses, even read a little bit in the car. Went through a long 20 year phase of not being able to do that, would get carsick. Just finished Reading Lolita in Tehran and now starting The Geography of Bliss. What a joy reading is to me.

Now home and trying to get organized for my week. It snowed a lot last week, especially in Bucuresti. I heard it snowed here but it’s all gone. We may get more on Tuesday, but it should be warm. We are all waiting for spring which I know is the same everywhere. I have two primroses and a spike of orchid blossoms to give me a taste of spring. And yogurt with muesli, and more red lentil dahl, with which to detox from my week of pork. Richard, Me, and TomI should note I'm wearing my hat in the color of "I'm-stealing-your-mojo" purple. Hat by Holly. Dragonfly Pin by Judy.

Again, Fobbing my Blog

Oh dear readers, I've been in a quagmire--down in the dumps about an overly challenging workplace hurdle. And now winter seems to be rearing its head again. But I had a great meeting yesterday with my PC bosses and my park boss, and I think I now have more projects (yikes! I like being busy, right?) and best of all a lot more freedom in which to accomplish them. We'll see how it goes. Also, preparing for a week-long marathon adventure with a couple of other volunteers to some environmental conferences in Bucuresti, Cluj, and Timisoara. Alas not enough time to revisit my club sandwich in Cluj. I'm presenting on the National Environmental Policy Act and biodiversity, although actually we have very little info about the meetings. We'll all be winging it to some extent. It's still Romania, after all.

So with all that, another volunteer posted this video on facebook today, and I think everyone should see it. It's Jamie Oliver talking about creating a food revolution in America. Or turning the clock back 30 years, if you can call that a revolution. Anyway, I hope you have time to check this out. It's great.

Tiny Little Culinary Success

After complaining that we don't have normal celery here, but rather the big celery root which is occasionally accompanied by something that sort of looks like our celery but you'd really only want to use in soup, my sister sent me a great recipe for said celery root. I adapted is slightly based on what I had and served it last night to a guest with roast chicken and mashed potatoes.

The celery root is raw, peeled, and julienned. Add to that sliced or julienned red apple. I also julienned some carrot, but the recipe calls for fennel which I think would be much better. Alas, we don't have fennel in the piata. Then I dressed it with a blend of olive oil, lemon juice, mustard, salt, and pepper. As a final note, I tossed on some walnuts. The recipe calls for hazelnut oil which would serve the same nutty purpose, and would be welcome. That's it. You could also toss on instead of the nuts some shaved romano cheese.

Bonus: just as good the next day.

Martisor

A little belatedly, here's a small story of what has easily become my favorite holiday--Romanian or otherwise. The streets have been filled with flowers for sale, particularly snowdrops, and trinkets with the red and white ribbon. I'll let my friend Petru tell the story, and I'm including one of his beautiful photographs.

"Romanians have a beautiful ancient tradition on the first day of March : Martisor (The Amulet). Its name is a diminutive from the name of Martie - the Romanian word for March.

"Every year the festive day of March 1 brings back to us renewed hopes, confidence, faith in good fortune and a prosperous life. It is life, spring and the shining sun which win the battle against chilly weather, overcast skies and the nasty days of the “Babele” ( = old women - the first 9 days in March).

"This triumph of rebirth and regeneration cannot be better embodied but in the Martisor which is offered to loved ones in early spring. The white and red thread of this amulet which parents customarily tie around their children's wrist, young men offer to young women, and young women exchange among themselves is believed to bring good luck and good health.

"The Martisor is offered early morning on the first day of March; it is worn for 9-12 days, sometimes until the first tree blooms, when it is hung on a flowering branch to bring good luck to its bearer."
photo by Petru Solca